December and the holidays bring joy and sometimes
reflection, but it is January, the heart of winter, that can become the month
of rumination. The start of the year,
however, is also when the days grow longer, and we appreciate the sun in a
bright blue sky glistening on the snow – usually. If accustomed to snow, the absence of it
offsets in that inexplicable way that setting the clocks forward and back
sometimes does. January can become like
this one a month played in minor key depending upon where our paths take us. With
travel, like life, we may say that the timing is not right and never go, but
think of 2019 as the year of heading out.
One such trip would be to the Roosevelt-Vanderbilt National Parks in Hyde Park, which offer not only history but the beauty of the Hudson Valley. For those interested in history, Ken Burns’ “The Roosevelts: An Intimate History,” brings home the relatable parts of the family story as well as world events: Teddy, a young man who lost both his wife and mother within a day, Franklin, a favorite son of a doting mother and the privileged man struck by illness, Eleanor, a girl who felt that she never fit in with her peers, and Eleanor & Franklin and the dynamics of a marriage.
Library and Museum, and Top Cottage
Springwood estate in Hyde Park, New York is the birthplace and home of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, which the family referred to as “Hyde Park” and the “Big House”. The house is impressive, but the sweeping view of the Hudson River rivals it. One could see why FDR returned to Springwood often during his three terms as president. On the grounds are also the FDR Presidential Library and Museum and the burial site of the president and first lady. The estate is beautiful with trees that FDR, a conservationist, had planted. Top Cottage, the president’s retreat, is about two miles away and accessible via the park shuttle.
Our first visit was on an impromptu stop while traveling to the Berkshires where my friend spent summers as a boy and enjoys returning as we both do. Hyde Park in Dutchess County, part of the Mid-Hudson Valley, however, is a destination in itself with FDR’s home, the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Park and the nearby Sixteen Mile Historic District in Columbia County, all part of The Hudson River National Landmark Historic District, the largest historic district in the continental US.
On this initial Springwood trip in June, we had a chance to
tour FDR’s home. Among the fascinating
accounts that the park ranger shared on the tour, a few stood out. Sara, Franklin’s
devoted mother who owned the house and Franklin’s
New York City home, interestingly, revamped Springwood
to look more “presidential” years before Franklin was president with an idea like
dressing for the job to which one aspires. Franklin
assisted with the designs that transformed the exterior of Springwood from a
pleasant “clapboard farmhouse” to Colonial Revival Style. Visitors,
many political allies, could easily envision FDR in the White House.
The president, the “Great Communicator,” delivered
two of his famous fireside chats from Springwood with his Scottish Terrier
Fala, a favorite of children across the country, including our mother, by his
side. Grown-ups, too, seemed to enjoy Fala.
The FDR Library blog shares that sailors got the idea of cutting off locks of
Fala’s fur for good luck on one of FDR’s WWII battleship visits. Fala had a habit of dashing off to the decks
below to get treats, and he slipped by his “walking officer” on the
USS Baltimore. The sociable Fala did not
bark while being clipped, but FDR had to put a stop to this as the terrier looked
Before Fala’s antics, along the tree-lined driveway to his boyhood home, the 39-year-old Franklin pushed himself to walk farther and farther each day after being stricken with polio. Researchers speculate that the president may have had Guillain-Barré syndrome, which is a nerve disorder and not a viral disease, but that did not change what FDR dealt with in 1921. Franklin never made it to the end of the driveway, but he continued to try.
For our mother and many of her peers, FDR was president throughout their childhoods. Our mother recalls that Mrs. Branigan, a Vailsburg, Newark neighbor and an Irish immigrant, got off the bus from work one day and walked along the street sobbing. When Mrs. Branigan passed our mother’s house, she saw the little girl sitting on the porch glider, and between tears, said, “Our president is dead.” Hearing this, our mother, too, burst into tears feeling a family attachment to the man whose voice had come into their homes to reassure them during the Great Depression and World War II.
A familial warmth is part of the delight of visiting
historic sites in Hyde Park and the area. Many residents knew the families who were
also part of their community, and they shared life stories. After each winning election, neighbors
carried torches up to the front of the house to wish FDR well. The wonderful feeling of community in Hyde Park remains to this day.
(Photo: a radiant young Eleanor proud of her accomplishment)
(Photos: Rose Garden)
The elegance of the Rose Garden, here blooming with peonies,
befits its stately purpose. The beloved Fala is also buried nearby and daughter
Anna’s German shepherd.
The FDR Presidential Library and Museum, the first US presidential
library, which we enjoyed on another visit, has the compelling pull of history.
Seeing the president’s memorabilia from his White House years has a resonance beyond
his delightful boyhood collections and the family photographs in his home. Historic
photos come to life in the library. FDR was the first president to donate his
letters to the public. The innovative
design of the entranceway celebrates this historic boon. At FDR’s request, the library also includes
the letters of the First Lady. Given
park budgets, Top Cottage has limited tours, and after our wonderful library
visit, we looked forward to seeing FDR’s retreat another time.
Top Cottage was the second home that FDR designed with
architect Henry Toombs with the thought that the president would retire there
after his second term. The fieldstone
Dutch Colonial Revival home is one of only two buildings designed by a US president and one of the first in the United States
with wheelchair accessibility.
Primarily, it was a peaceful getaway.
Springwood was often hectic during FDR’s presidency, and well-wishers
entered the grounds hoping to see the president, unimaginable with 21st-century
Like Springwood, Top Cottage had many famous visitors: Winston Churchill, Canadian Prime Minister William Lyon MacKenzie, Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands and Princesses Juliana and Beatrix, Norway’s Crown Prince Olaf and Crown Princess Martha, and interestingly, Madame Chiang Kai-Shek. On the first visit to the US by British monarchs, King George VI and Queen Elizabeth were guests at the celebrated Top Cottage “hot dog summit,” where the president introduced the royal couple to American dishes at a picnic and took the king and queen on one of his hurtling car rides. The picnic had a serious and successful purpose in making the British monarchs seem relatable and more democratic as they ate and drank beer with Hyde Park staff. Months later, FDR was able to send supplies to help England after their declaration of war on Germany. All of FDR’s guests appreciated this woodland retreat from the public eye as he did and the warmth of being entertained in a home.
(Photo: Churchill sculpture)
(Photo: 4 freedoms sculpture: A sculpture based on President Roosevelt’s “Four Freedoms” speech that inspired Norman Rockwell, his Berkshires neighbor.)
If we drove like FDR, we may have made it on time to tour
Top Cottage, but missing the shuttle bus went from our running joke about
timing, somewhat akin to having missed the rocket launch for life, to a lesson
in saying good-bye to perfectionism, a good resolution. Travel writing should make people want to go
to a place and enjoy it – informative fun does not have to be a dutiful treatise.
And yet, we still tried. Top Cottage
closes in the winter, another discovery on a different visit, which meant a great
excuse to enjoy the beautiful tulip poplar trees outside the library and have
lunch in the café before driving home. Other trips to the FDR historic site
have brought more walks and gift shop stops for ornaments at the holidays. So a
missed shuttle bus here and there has led to making the FDR historic site a
regular stop like walking the grounds at the Vanderbilt Mansion.
Posting, too, went the way of the elusive Top Cottage. Even with the buffer of history, a post in the fall of 2016 was not the best time. Over the holidays, rethought this with the idea for Top Cottage as a metaphor for new beginnings, still the timing was not right, but better now with thoughts of spring visits.
Val-Kill, Eleanor Roosevelt’s residence and historic site, is two miles from Springwood and a little over four miles from Top Cottage. Perhaps that is part of how Eleanor and Franklin’s marriage lasted or that the demands of public life required personal space. A warm June sun, chirping birds, and beautiful flowers, show the simple residence as what it was, a haven for the first lady. With the exhibits planned by the park rangers, visitors feel Eleanor’s uplifting spirit. Practically, Val-Kill gave the first lady opportunity to work on her own projects including the development of off-season jobs for local residents, which became Val-Kill Industries. The name “Valley Stream” is from the Dutch for both the valley location and the wonderful stream that offered the Roosevelt family swimming in the summer. The grounds are beautiful with a charming footbridge and a wonderful garden with peonies in season. Val-Kill later went to Eleanor’s son Elliott, who had attended the Hun School in Princeton, a New Jersey connection.
(Photos: residence / garden)
If you enjoy history, the tours are where you get the great tidbits.
Our park ranger, part of the esprit de
corps of rangers like those at Springwood, brought the beautiful mansion to
Frederick Vanderbilt, grandson of Cornelius, along with his
wife Louise commissioned Charles McKim, a name partner in the country’s top
architectural firm McKim, Mead & White, to build their Neoclassical-Beaux
Arts home. As the Historic Resource
Study for the site notes, the elegant architectural combination was unusual for
a country home and is the only one of its kind in the Hudson Valley. With a newly restored exterior, visitors can
now enjoy river views from the balcony in warm weather. Completion of the 54-room mansion brought the
top craftsmen for woodwork and stone design, many from Italy, Germany,
and Switzerland. The interior is incredible as you can see from
the photos. Much of the furniture and art was brought from Europe, a trend at
the time, and Stanford White was Frederick’s
antique dealer. James Greenleaf designed the Italianate garden, which we look
forward to seeing on another trip.
During the two years it took to build the mansion, 1896-1899, Louise and Frederick periodically stayed in the Pavilion, now the elegant visitor’s center, to oversee building. The Gilded Age families were the generation that spent the fortunes that their grandparents had made. In the case of Frederick and Louise, they were generous as opposed to frivolous. Frederick had architect McKim build the Howard Mansion at Hosack Farm across the road for his niece Rose Anthony Post Howard and her husband Thomas Howard, a descendant of the founder of Rutgers University and Revolutionary War general, John Neilson. Rose and Thomas were the maternal grandparents of Thomas Howard Kean, the Governor of New Jersey. Well-liked in Hudson Valley, Frederick and Louise Vanderbilt did not have children and enjoyed giving gifts to those of their staff. Though they had their bedrooms designed as if they were European royalty, they were warm and accessible. Louise herself oversaw gift-giving for the staff. They left a great deal of their fortune to charity, loyal staff, and a niece. The ultimate donation of the mansion to the public, like that of Springwood, was FDR’s idea.
(Photo: gifts / household)
The estate provided local jobs year-round with the mansion,
the grounds, garden, greenhouses, dairy, vegetable garden, orchard, and a dock
where guests could arrive on their yachts.
The ice box is representative of how eco-friendly the property was. Long after the invention of refrigerators, Frederick kept these
efficient ices boxes in use. Not only
did the ice boxes operate without electrical power, but the staff employed who
maintained the ice remained employed.
The beautiful holiday welcome, done at the initiative of the park rangers, is breathtaking. Like other Gilded Age families, the Vanderbilts had several homes where they usually spent different seasons. The mansion was their country home where they celebrated Easter and visited in the fall, though they did give Christmas gifts to staff. New York City was their primary residence and Newport, Rhode Island, Bar Harbor, Maine, and the Adirondacks, their summer retreats. (Springwood also has Christmas decorations.) In warmer weather, visitors may go out on the balcony, open after the restoration.
(Photos: mansion decorations / restoration before and after / interior and décor)
Hyde Park Drive-in
The Hyde Park Drive-in, opened in 1950, is an in-season classic and another reason to stay over in the area. If you enjoy these photos, you may want to follow the wonderful Cinema Treasures, which documents movie venues all over the country.
At the Vanderbilt Mansion, a number of loyal Poughkeepsians talked up their town, which called for a return trip first to enjoy the Walkway Over the Hudson State Historic Park. The views matched “The Queen City of the Hudson,” as Poughkeepsie on the east bank is also known, which is across the river from the charming Kingston. Even on a minus-degree wind chill day, the Hudson River was spectacular. An active park group takes year-round advantage of the trails and you can connect with them on their social media. During the holidays, the bridge is lit in red and green lights at night.
(Photo: bridge view)
The all too brief visit to the City of Poughkeepsie led to stops to admire the fine architecture and an informal tour of Vassar College. Look forward to visiting the charming Mid_Hudson Children’s Museum and more on the next visit to the city, which has a drive-in, the Overlook.
Photo of Teddy from post office: look forward to visiting the Theodore Roosevelt historic sites.
A delight of the December return trip was the holiday cheer
and navigational expertise of the area toll takers. GPS is not the same as directions shared with
smiles and the admiration of a cheerful holiday pin or Santa Claus gel nails. Our family knows the area from growing up, a
story for another day, but these quick chats were not only helpful, but reminders
of nice visits and family stories.
As a Seven Sisters graduate, it was delightful to visit Vassar College campus in Poughkeepsie. Now coed, the beautiful campus has a wonderful atmosphere and delightful shops and restaurants nearby.
Named after English poet John Milton, the hamlet in Ulster County
delights with historic homes, churches, and welcoming shops in a scenic
setting. With such a brief visit, look
forward to another. A fun tidbit is that Marlon Brando’s “A Fugitive
Kind” was filmed here in 1959.
Enjoyed spectacular river views from the Milton Landing
with a truly merry Christmas tree out on the dock.
(Photos: town and park with river views)
Rhinebeck charms in every season. The former “Violet Capital of the World,” later renowned for its anemones, Rhinebeck is known for its hospitality, and to this day, a warm welcome awaits visitors. FDR gave campaign speeches from the porch of the historic Beekman Arms, 1766, which hosted everyone from Founding Fathers George Washington and Robert Livingston to New Jerseyans Frank Sinatra and Jack Nicholson. A further New Jersey connection goes back to Robert Livingston’s brother William, who signed the Constitution and was the first governor of New Jersey during the Revolutionary War. William resided at Liberty Hall, Union. Liberty Hall, now part of Kean University, was sold to Kean relatives, family of New Jersey Governor Thomas Kean on his father’s side. Alexander Hamilton was a guest at both Liberty Hall and the Beekman Arms.
German settlers from the Bavarian Palatinate named the beautiful area “Ryn Beck” in 1714, because it reminded them of their Rhine Valley home. Rhinebeck dates back to the Sepasco and Eposus, Lenape Native Americans who were later joined by Dutch settlers in 1686. The Dutch brought the Sinterklaass tradition now celebrated in an annual December nondemoninational festival. Well-known residents like John Jacob Astor IV followed the Dutch and Germans to what became “Rhinebeck”. The village, a National Historic District, is remarkable in that so much of its original architecture remains.
The photos here are from a December trip to the Village of Rhinebeck within the larger town both within the “Sixteen Mile Historic District”.
(Photos: Delamater House, town and shops)
A well-known resident, Hilarie Burton, who stars in one of my favorite holiday movies, “Christmas on the Bayou,” is an active sponsor of a local charity Astor Services for Children and Families and has invested in a town business, Samuel’s Sweet Shop, both co-starring her husband Jeffrey Dean Morgan and friends Julie Yeager & Paul Rudd. Rhinebeck is also the hometown of Rufus Wainwright, whose performance at the Asbury Park Convention Hall on his tour for “All Days Are Nights: Songs for Lulu” was so incredible that it was like being transported out of time and place. In real time, however, my friend stepped out for a snack on the boardwalk and returned for the encore. Mr. Wainwright was in competition with the PGA Tour, which is not to slight a true artist who had sold out the venue, but it helps with perspective when putting work out there.
(Photo moonlight: Calvert Vaux appreciated the serenity that nature and beauty instill – sense of well-being like Central Park)
The Hudson Valley has so much to see and do that we may never make it to Top Cottage. We look forward to discovering other sights that range from the High Falls Conservation Area to the Culinary Institute of America, which our mother has enjoyed with friends. Wilderstein, where FDR’s cousin, confidante, and Fala gift-giver Daisy Suckley lived, was and is on the visit list. Though arriving after dark on the most recent Mid-Hudson Valley visit, still took a loyal fan photo at the Victorian mansion with its grounds designed by Calvert Vaux, because all roads lead to Central Park and New Jersey at one time or another.
Home Travels with You
Once in a surprising turn of events, while traveling with a
summer study group, we rode in a boat taxi along the Grand Canal at sunset in Venice. The sun splashed a
million shades of gold along the colorful palazzi in “La
Serenissimo,” the “Most Serene Republic of Venice”. Inexplicably, most of the students were
arguing over the rooms, but the lulling sound of water and the steady hum of
the engine could still be heard between sharp words. Looking across the boat, another classmate,
like me marveled at the panoramic beauty before us. She smiled serenely. We did not know each other well. From our remarks in class, we had different
opinions on things, but we both had an appreciation for our good fortune. Our classmates missed the sunset, not having
noticed, or not having minded. Later,
when we all returned to school, work, and occasional turmoil, my fellow
traveler and I would sometimes look at each other and smile. We had shared a love of beauty.
People will surprise us. Before going on the trip, our Uncle Ray, a comedy writer for Steve Allen, Bob Hope, and Phyllis Diller, and at times, presidents of both parties, whose favorite movie preferences were lighthearted ones featuring Laurel & Hardy and Hope and Crosby’s “Road pictures,” suggested, “Watch David Lean’s ‘Summertime’ before you go. Venice looks like a dream.'” The film, if you have not seen it, is a visual love letter to the city as much as it is about lost opportunity and timing. For our uncle who was so talented that he did not easily fit in, which ultimately led to full-time work in a factory, the film may have had a particular meaning. Generous, his career advice was his life advice, “Cheap shots are easy, it’s the clever jokes that are hard.”
In a pessimist’s theory of reductionism, Serenissimo is
overcrowded, Fala was the invention of wartime propaganda, and Teddy’s bad side
is on Mount Rushmore. On a certain level, these assertions may seem
true, but it would be like describing Venice
without the light. Happy New Year.
(Photo: First Lady stamp and envelope FDR, an avid stamp
collector, would have appreciated Uncle Ray’s First Day of Issue gifts)
Note: Intended for posting in January 2019.
(Sources: nps.gov, fdr.blogs.archives.gov, c-span.org/video/?429257-1/franklin-d-roosevelts-top-cottage “American History TV,” history.com, health.heraldtribune.com, hvmg.com, forbes.com, smithsonianmagazine.com, whitehousehistory.org, ushistory.org, poughkeepsiejournal.com, hrvh.com, rhinebeckchamber.com, rhinebeckmuseum.com, beekmandelamaterinn.com, wilderstein.org, usatoday.com, c-span.org, tripadvisor.com, providencejournal.com, aboutfranklinroosevelt.com, Wiki)
“Hyde Park: The Year from the Top” All Rights Reserved © 2019 Kathleen Helen Levey